Why Stage Costume Fit Should Be Tested While Moving
The reason to test stagewear while moving during fittings is because even if a garment looks good in a mirror, it might not function when the actor raises their arms, bends over, or takes a long stride. Costumes need to move, not just stand still. A neckline that looks perfect when you’re standing still might ride up in the back when you move. A snug sleeve could limit your ability to reach forward. A skirt that appears to sit evenly while you’re standing might shift around when you walk. Therefore, you should always test costumes by moving while fitting them instead of after the fitting is finished.
Pin or baste the areas you think might be wrong, then test the costume by doing some basic movements. Walk around the room, sit down, raise your arms above your head, twist your upper body, reach in front of you, and take a few big strides. Don’t try to act out the whole scene. You just want to feel where the fabric feels tight or starts to tug. Examine where the armholes, waistbands, side seams, necklines, closures, and any overlay fabrics feel when you do these things. If a seam looks good when standing still but twists when you move, you’ve learned something useful about where the costume needs adjustments.
Pay attention to how the garment behaves after you move, too. Does the hem settle back in place? Does the overlay stay on top or fall down? Does the neckline closure remain flat or open up? These behaviors might give you clues about whether you need to add seam allowances, adjust the grainline, or add more room to the pattern. Take pictures of yourself from the front and side after a few moves if you can. It’s sometimes easier to spot skewed seams or lopsided layers by looking at a photograph than it is to look in the mirror.
New costume fitters sometimes try to address multiple fitting issues at once. You might think an armhole is too tight, the shoulder seam is shifting, and the neckline is pulling, but if you make adjustments in all three places, it’s difficult to know which adjustment fixed the problem. Identify one specific problem, make an adjustment, and try the movement tests again. If you gain more room of movement without causing a different problem, keep the adjustment. If not, undo the change and try another solution.
Some types of fabric require more movement testing than others. Spandex stretches under pressure, which can mask fitting issues until the actor puts on the costume and performs a movement. Conversely, a stiff fabric will restrict movement quickly. Adding heavy trims, interfacing, lining, or appliqué can also impact movement, even after the underlying structure of the costume is adjusted. That’s why it’s best to test major embellishments on a mockup before adding them to the real costume. If you have a large piece of trim, pin it to the garment and test it. You’ll be able to see if the trim drags the fabric down, or if it changes how the sleeve, hem, or neckline moves.
Instead of asking, “Does my costume fit?” ask, “How does it move?” Can the wearer sit without being restricted? Can they reach out without the garment being pulled up? Can they turn without the costume being pulled apart? Do they easily fall back into a neutral pose without having to readjust anything? As you answer those questions positively, you know you’re on the right track.