Beginner’s Guide to Seams, Hems, and Reinforcements for Stagewear

While seams, hems, and reinforcements are not as glamorous as the cut and embellishment of a stagewear costume, they play a vital role in the overall performance and longevity of the garment. Seams join the pattern pieces together; hems create and finish the edge of the garment; and reinforcements are designed to strengthen areas of the costume that will be subject to additional stress. Learning to recognize the importance of these features is more beneficial for a beginning sewer than using advanced techniques before the basic skills have been mastered.

Lay two pieces of scrap fabric side-by-side and stitch a short seam using the seam allowance you will use for your costume. Press the seam and gently tug the fabric in a variety of directions. Bend or manipulate the sample to see what happens when the garment moves. Now create a small hem on the scrap material. You will quickly discover the amount of bulk created by the hem, whether the stitching distorts the fabric or causes puckering, and the effect of pressing the fabric. It is highly recommended to test your fabric, lining, or stretch material prior to cutting any garments.

The placement of seams has an impact on both the fit and wearability of a garment. Side seams, shoulder seams, waist seams, and armholes are all subjected to different degrees of stress. A seam may lie flat when a costume is on the hanger, yet pull or gap when the wearer reaches, sits, or turns. After basting the garment together, observe whether the seams hold their shape while the costume is being moved. If one section of the costume pulls excessively, do not immediately reach for a heavier weight of thread or additional seams to fix the issue. The fit, seam allowances, stretch of the fabric, or the construction of that particular area must be reevaluated.

Hems, too, must be evaluated for their fit and stability. Stage costumes are frequently worn while walking, turning, or transitioning from one pose to another. An uneven hem becomes more obvious when the costume moves. Allow the costume to hang and try it on before the hem is finished, noting the length while standing still. Walk a few paces and observe if the hem rides up, flutters, or shifts. A heavier fabric may require a different depth of hem than a lightweight fabric, and curves will react differently to hems than straight lines will. Thorough pressing and pinning is more likely to result in a better finish than trying to force the edge into position quickly.

Reinforcements are most beneficial in certain areas of stress and are not required throughout the entire costume. Closures, waist seams, strap locations, armholes, pockets, heavy appliques, and areas that contain additional trim such as braids may be subjected to repetitive strain. A small patch of interfacing, additional stitching, or another type of reinforcement may be appropriate to distribute the stress. It is common for beginners to add excessive layers of fabric to every spot where they perceive weakness, which creates a stiff, heavy, and uncomfortable costume. The purpose of reinforcements is to add strength where it is needed, not to add weight.

Prior to deeming the costume completed, the interior of the garment should be inspected as closely as the exterior. Check for exposed raw edges, twisted hems, closures that are pulling on the fabric, and decorations that place an undue amount of weight on a single point of attachment. Once the costume has been pressed for the final time, move in the garment and note any areas of excess stress. If a reinforced section feels overly rigid, a hem begins to curl, or a seam feels tight, resolve that problem before proceeding with any additional construction. Although a clean finish is desirable, a garment that remains comfortable and secure while moving is far more important.